A surfer’s high
José recalls his favorite surfer settings in South Florida - pickin’ up his gear in the morning twilight, racing to the beach and jumping in a thick wetsuit into the water:
“Walking toward the surf, I feel the crisp wind laced with ocean smell; the cool sand slipping through my toes feels better than dress shoes. As the sun slowly comes up, it gives the waves a translucent, gold color that mesmerizes me.”
And: “After much trying, catching one of those waves makes you feel like a hero who can take on anything — a dragon slayer. Some waves feel electric, like the house and techno music I listened to in high school. Others feel majestic like O Fortuna in Carmina Burana; some waves are vibrant and bright like a puya song from my native vallenato music.”
Sounds good for me, and here is the rest of the article for you…