Letters from a surfer girl (2)
For the time I’ve been here in Costa Rica, I get news from an old friend from back home. She’s a surfer novice but passionate as a pro. I don’t know a lot people like her, and maybe you either. I like you know her better, and that’s what she is - in her words, from her letters…
Dear Bruno,
(part 1) … I was surrounded by waves. I remember how cold these waves were! It was spring at that time, damn, how could I? It was too late, my face freezed and fingers blue as we all four paddled out to catch the first one.
How do you do this? I had no clue when to start to stand up, or to paddle with the wave, or whatever. The big brown Aussie guy must have seen my frustration as he came out to me and hold my board from behind. He hold it firmly and gave it a push in the right moment. I stood up as I would do this for my life time, rode that damned wave for a few moments. Moments that felt like ages, for me the Queen of the Ocean, I finally triumphed over the world’s instability, united in my body, my board and the wave I took home like a trophy.
I never forget this feeling, and altough I missed 9 of 10 opportunities, the first ride is something special. I didn’t care about the cold water anymore, my blue finger tips - the warmth of this victory spread through my body. Enjoyed, excited, the time passed and after two hours we left the beach.
Lying in my bed, I would feel the way the ocean moves, I would try to stand up on an imaginary board. Completely tired, I couldn’t join my friend to go out that night, for her adventures. I had mine during this morning, I thought.
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