Letters from a surfer girl (1)
For the time I’ve been here in Costa Rica, sometimes I get news from an old friend from back home. She’s a surfer novice but passionate as a pro. I don’t know a lot people like her, and maybe you either. I like you know her better, and that’s what she is - in her words, from her letters…
Dear Bruno,
I remember my first surf very well. At that time I spend some time in Melbourne, and during a trip to Sydney, me and a friend decided almost accidently to load our car with surf boards and three guys. What a fun that was! Driving through empty villages, wide forests and along sunny beaches - that is one of my favorite memories.
I never surfed before, and the three guys couldn’t stop to test the waters along the trip. I watched them from the coast and saw their happiness. There was no way for me to try it out, but a day later in Sydney I booked a surf trip and an instructor.
I felt pure excitement, I couldn’t finish my beloved pancakes. I forgot to breath and to pack half of the things I would need later. An hour later I smiled into an Australian face, a brown skinned happy nature.
Three other beginners joined this surf session and we arrived at the beach after a wild drive through dunes and heavy winds. I suppose you don’t have to warm up in Costa Rica, but that day in Australia, we played Aussie Football for 15 minutes to get rid of the coldness of this morning.
Hey, finally I could hold my surf board for the first time! Ha, to learn how to stand up, how to paddle, on secure ground… before the Aussie instructor warned us about rips and curls. Hmm. And before I could start thinking, he pushed us toward the water, and minutes later, I was surrounded by waves…
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