Surfboard party for her
Saturday, June 3rd, 2006I had my first ride, my first surf and she shouted at me, go away, back off. I came to close and she feared the soft top could hit her. In my imagination, I turned easily off to my right, continuing my ride to some bigger waves. In reality, I jumped from that board, ignorant of joy or worry, hey, I had my first surf, that’s an applause. But she was angry, and I better went away, looking for a new challenge in the ever changing landscape of waves and waves.

