Free surfing, better life
After two hours she returned from the water, shaking and freezing, but with that unmisunderstandable smile on her face. Hapiness about some accomplished rides, about her skills to manage such a board in a wild sea.
I smiled too, knowingly that we would be in our car in a few minutes, walking toward her to help her with the longboard. She took my head in her hands, kissed me and asked full of joy – did you see that?
She didn’t stop to recount me her tales of the last two hours, repeating ride after ride, playing a CD that was burned into her brain, visualizing all memories. I took off her wetsuit, moved her gently into the shower, rubbed her hair and body with a dry and warm towel.
She never said it with words, but I understood: she would like it here. She would love to live here, every day one ort wo hours of surf, free surf with her own board. For her, that was a concept of a better life. Unspoken, but real.
During our drive back to the hostel, I could rethink all this. As she continued to talk about the early past, I moved into the future, believing, that this could hold elements of a concept, I would sympathize with – nature, my own boss, and her presence.
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