I listened to her words, to her pleads that she needs a beach, a sunny day, and waves. Waves to ride, baby. I was a lazy guy. Why just not sit under a big umbrella and enjoy the day sipping a beer? But she didn’t stop, never rested to tell the adventure of using kind of a board to have fun in the ocean.

Don’t get me wrong here. I’m a guy who loves the Ocean. I desperataly need the Atlantic, but I’m satisfied to smell it, to see the horizon. I don’t have to join the water to feel lucky, it’s fine for me to reach out for the ocean’s air.
Back to her, back to Ilha do Mel (Brazil), where most of the beaches were flat and fine for small kids. She was disappointed, and far away - dreaming of a surf. The other day, we walked south to the tip of the island, and there was one of the better surfer spots. To be honest, I couldn’t tell if that was a good or bad spot, but there were so many surfers in the water, that must meant something.

We stayed the day at that beach, watching toward the sea, toward the surf guys. We never went to taste it, and somebody may think what a lost chance. She was disappointed again, but it was nobody’s fault. Sometimes it’s better to stay back if you don’t feel comfortable. That was definitely that type of waves a beginner would not like to ride. Short, heavy breaks.
She said, we try it somewhere else, and we went back to our paradise beach huts for a drink or two.

This entry was posted on Saturday, April 22nd, 2006 at 7:01 am and is filed under Surf & travel stories remembered. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Responses are currently closed, but you can trackback from your own site.